Too much, after too little, for too long

1935 Memorial Day rainfall amounts among 

the most intense ever recorded on Earth

By Rob Carrigan, robcarrigan1@gmail.com

It's been nearly nine decades, but many homes were swept away by a raging torrent that swirled down Monument Creek that afternoon.

"It would appear that the most extreme rainfall event on record in Colorado was that of May 30-31, 1935. In an event that strains credulity, an astonishing 24” of rain fell in six hours (22.80” of which fell in just four hours) at two locations in eastern Colorado on the afternoon and evening of May 30, 1935. The amounts were recorded at two remote sites located about a hundred miles apart, Gauge #Sec. 34, T9S, R564W was located about 25 miles northeast of Colorado Springs, and Gauge #AB Sec. 26, T5S, R55W, just north of Burlington, near the Kansas border, according to Christopher C. Burt of the Weather Underground.

"Two feet of rainfall in less than six hours would be close to the most intense such fall ever recorded anywhere on earth. Furthermore, unlike most other rainfall records of this intensity, the rain occurred over flat terrain in a non-tropical environment. In fact, this region of Colorado normally receives only 16–18” of rain annually. The figures, however, appear to be accurate since there were three separate readings over a 100-mile area. In addition, an official weather observer in Seibert recorded 9” of rain in two hours." 

The Weather Bureau’s Climatological Data, Colorado Section, May, 1935, reported the following in the Monthly Review:

"On the 30th, excessive local downpours occurred in the vicinity of Colorado Springs and along the northern slope of the Arkansas-Platte Divide. Four lives were lost and a total estimated property damage of $1,800,000 [about $20 million adjusted for current dollars] occurred along Monument Creek and Fountain Creek in Colorado Springs and vicinity. At the height of the flood, skies over extreme eastern counties (where the phenomenal rainfalls were recorded) were a chocolate brown. This was due to a most unusual situation. Along the Colorado-Kansas border there was a heavy dust storm. Clouds of dust could be seen for miles, while to the west torrents of floodwater roared, and at Bovina, hailstones, some as large as baseballs, were reported to have fallen. The coppery-hued sky cast a brown shadow, giving the scene a weird appearance."

In the end, at least 21 people were killed (and probably quite a few more) in floods statewide, and property damage totaled between $8 and $10 million (about $100 million in current dollars), ranking this event as one of the costliest disasters in Colorado history. Combined with damage and fatalities in Nebraska and Kansas the storm may actually have killed 113 and caused $800 million (1997 adjusted) in damages according to the account below.

But it had been so dry.  From 1934 to 1937...The Dust Bowl years for Colorado and the midwest, numerous farmers and cattlemen put out of business. Blowing dirt and dust over the region closed roads and made moving around and breathing hard. Many aircraft were grounded due to blowing dust, and radio communication was nearly impossible.

Then in 1935, May 31.. Memorial Day flood on Monument Creek in Colorado Springs kills more than 21 people and washes away bridges and buildings in downtown.

"In the midst of a drought, during the devastation of the dustbowl in southeastern Colorado, a storm pushed from the northeast against the Rampart Range and dropped over 7” of rain on Memorial Day, 1935. A massively destructive flood hit Colorado Springs and El Paso County. Monument and Fountain Creeks overflowed their banks, destroying 70 houses and killing at least six people. In Monument Creek, that today averages around 20 cubic feet per second (cfs) flow (with peaks up to 1,500 cfs), water reached close to 50,000 cfs. Witnesses reported 10 to 15 foot waves. Every bridge over Monument Creek was washed out, with the exception of the viaduct at Bijou Street. The Eight Street bridge over Fountain Creek was damaged, but remained open to one car at a time and provided the only connection between the city and the Broadmoor and Ivywild neighborhoods. In addition to the loss of city bridges, 47 bridges in rural El Paso County were heavily damaged. Railroad and highway connections outside of the city were cut off. Sewer lines were busted, the electricity and power plants flooded, and three miles of the El Paso Canal washed out. Hard hit was Monument Valley Park, the jewel of the city park system since 1907. Where once were charming gardens, winding walks, and water features with picturesque bridges now lay uprooted trees, gravel, mud, and debris. Damage was estimated at over $1.7 million," says a recent report by Dr. John Harner, Professor of Geography & Environmental Studies, University of Colorado, Colorado Springs.

"Fortunately, depression-era Works Progress Administration programs were already established in the city building roads in Pike National Forest and erosion control projects in Palmer Park. These crews quickly went to work to rehabilitate and rebuild Monument Valley Park. The Monument Creek floodplain was widened and straightened, with riprap installed to slow down water and walls lining the creek. For the next six years, hundreds worked to rebuild the park and the city bridges. While flood control improvements were necessary, sixty-five acres of land previously used for park recreation was reallocated into the inaccessible floodplain, reducing the amount of usable park space," writes Harner.

 

 

Pioneer photographer takes Mesa Verde shot first

William Henry Jackson was the first to take a cliff dwelling photograph (this photo) in Mesa Verde area.

Take a picture, it lasts longer

By Rob Carrigan, robcarrigan1@gmail.com

Visitors and explorers have been coming to area for years. But William Henry Jackson was the first to take a photograph.

"Father Fray Francisco Atanasio awoke somewhat improved, and in order to change terrain and climate rather than to make progress, we set out from the camp and Rio de San Lázaro toward the northwest. We traveled a little more than a league, swung west by west-northwest, and went five leagues through leafy forests and good pastures. Then we turned west, traveled two and a half leagues through a chamise thicket with little pasturage, went a quarter of a league to the north, crossed Rio de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, and camped on its north bank. This river rises on the north slope of the Sierra de la Plata, and runs southwest to this place, where it makes a sharp turn. It is a little smaller than the Rio del Norte in this season. - Today a little more than eight and a half leagues," wrote Francisco Silvestre Vélez de Escalante, on August 12, 1776.

The next day, in the Diary and Itinerary of Fathers Dominguez and Escalante (English Translation), the padres found it hard to leave.

"We remained in camp, partly so that the Father might improve a little and be able to go forward, and partly to observe the latitude of this site and meadow of the Rio de los Dolores where we were. An observation was made by the sun and we found we were in 38° and 13 1/2' north latitude. Here there is everything needed for the establishment and maintenance of a good settlement in the way of irrigable lands, pastures, timber and firewood. On an elevation on the south bank of the river in ancient times there was a small settlement of the same form as those of the Indians of New Mexico, as is shown by the ruins which we purposely examined. Father Fray Francisco Atanasio felt better, and we decided to continue our journey next day,"Escalante writes August 13, 1776.

In 1824. "father of the Santa Fe Trail" and Mountain Man William Becknell winter camped near ruins on  Mesa Verde (probably within the boundaries of the park, today). He wrote letters back to Franklin, Mousouri, that were printed in the Intelligencer newspaper at the time.

"In the vicinity of our encampment, I discovered old diggings and the remains of furnaces, There are also in this neighborhood the remain on many small stone houses, some of which have one story beneath the surface of the earth. There are likewise an abundance of broken pottery here, well-baked and neatly painted. This was probably the site of a town where the ancient Mexican Indians resided, as the Spaniards, who seldom visit this part of the country, give no account of it," described Becknell.

But not until William Henry Jackson's visit in 1874, was it photographed.

Known as Two Story House, and located on Moccasin Mesa, just outside the modern boundaries of the park on Ute Mountain Ute tribal land, Jackson shot the first photograph of cliff dwellings in the area. Jackson recalled taking this photo.

"Our first discovery of a Cliff House that came up to our expectations was made in the first day out from Merrit's.  We had finished our evening meal of bacon, fresh baked bread, and coffee and were standing around the sage brush fire enjoying its general warmth, with the contented good natured mood that usually follows a good supper after good day of hard work, and were in humor to be merry," wrote Jackson.

"Looking up at the walls of the canyon that towered above us some 800 to 1,000 feet we commenced bantering Steve, who was a big heavy fellow, about the possibility of having to help carry the boxes up to the top to photograph some of the ruins there — with no thought that they were in sight. He asked Moss to point out the particular ruin we had in view; the Captain indicated the highest part of the wall at random. "Yes," said Steve, "I can see it," and sure enough, on closer observation, there was something there was something that looked like a house sandwiched between the strata of the sandstones very near the top. Forgetting the fatigue of the day's work, all had started out at once to investigate. The first part of the accent was easy enough, but the upper portion was a perpendicular wall of some 200 feet, and half way up, the cave-like shelf, on which was the little house. Before we had reached the foot of this last cliff only Ingersoll and I remained, the others having seen Althea cared for, realizing they would have to do it all over in the morning," Jackson recalled.

"It was growing dark, but I wanted to see all there was of it, in order to plan my work for the next day, and Ingersoll remained with me. We were 'stumped' for a while in making that last hundred feet, but with the aid of an old dead tree, and the remains of some ancient foot holds, we finally reached the bench or platform on which was perched, like a swallow's nest, the 'Two Story House' of our first photograph. From this height we had the glorious view over surrounding canyon walls, while far below our camp fire glimmered in the deepening shadows like a far away little red star."

Millions of photos have followed Jackson's first, including the preceding shots from Jackson and others like Russel Lee and Ansel Adams in the 1940s, Haines Photo Co in the 1900s and 1920s, and tourist from all around the world.

 

Mesa Verde established nearly 10 years before the National Park Service was created

Thing of the Past ...

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park," Colorado (Vertical Orientation) by Ansel Adams.

In 1941 the U.S. National Park Service commissioned noted photographer Ansel Adams (1902-84) to create a photographic mural for the Department of the Interior Building in Washington, DC. The theme was to be nature as exemplified and protected in the national parks and national monuments of the United States. The project was halted because of World War II and never resumed. The holdings of the Still Picture Branch of the U.S. National Archives include 226 photographs taken for this project, most of them signed and captioned by Adams. Photographs of Kings Canyon National Park were taken in 1936, when establishment of the park was being proposed, and added by Adams to the mural project. The single photograph of Yosemite was a gift from Adams to the head of the National Park Service, Horace Albright, in 1933. Shown here is a view of Mesa Verde National Park, which was established by Congress and President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 to "preserve the works of man," the first national park with this objective. Mesa Verde, Spanish for "green table," was home to an ancestral pueblo people for over 700 years, from 600 A.D. to 1300 A.D. The park protects over 4,000 known archeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings.

Lucy Peabody, as a result, became known 

as the “Mother of Mesa Verde National Park"

By Rob Carrigan, robcarrigan1@gmail.com

As a youngster, some of my most vivid memories are surrounded by a pinion- and juniper-tree backdrop and the strange abandoned cities on the green table drained by the Mancos River in southwestern Colorado.

In those days, the entire mummified remains of “Ester,” and various other ancient pueblo inhabitants, still were displayed openly in cases at the museum on the rim above Spruce Tree House in Mesa Verde National Park.

Mesa Verde was established by Congress on June 29, 1906, nearly 10 years before the National Park Service was created.

Virginia Donagh McClurg, of Colorado Springs, was instrumental in the effort to create the park, and her influence also had a profound effect on local history and the tourist industry in this area.

A former correspondent for the New York Graphic, McClurg became interested in preserving the Mesa Verde area from rampant pothunting as early as 1884 when she visited the mesa under a cavalry escort.

A decade later, “she enlisted the support of the Colorado Federation of Women’s Clubs, published articles and poems and wrote letters to people in high places, including Presidents William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt,” according to “Mesa Verde: The First 100 Years.”

This book was edited by Rose Houk and Faith Marcovecchio with Duane Smith as historical consultant and published by Mesa Verde Museum Association and Fulcrum Publishing.

McClurg also began a lecturing widely (particularly on the Front Range) and even approached the Utes, via Chief Ignacio, in the hopes of leasing the area for her efforts to “let this be the woman’s park.”

McClurg founded the Colorado Cliff Dwelling Association in 1900 and continued to raise money in an effort to preserve the mesa.

“In 1906, with the conservationist Theodore Roosevelt as president, the political climate and public sentiment finally were ripe to achieve The Cliff Dwelling Association’s goals. Unfortunately, at this critical juncture, a large rift opened between the two most influential supporters. Virginia McClurg wanted a state park under control of the women’s group and withdrew her support for a national one at the last hour, while Lucy Peabody maintained her staunch support for a national park.”

Lucy Peabody, as a result, became known as the “Mother of Mesa Verde National Park.”

“When Lucy Peabody won the battle about state vs. federal oversight, Virginia McClurg went home and helped create Manitou Springs,” according to the book.

With stone from various different sites in the southwest corner of the state, a reproduction of a Mesa Verde cliff dwelling was created in Manitou Springs.

From new research, it appears the original ruins, at one time located near my hometown of Dolores, were loaded on rail cars and freighted on to Manitou Springs, where they were reassembled.

But more about that later. The replica opened there at about the same time as the designation of Mesa Verde as a national park. 

Also,  a reader noted: "The efforts of the Reading Club, Durango's member of the Colo Women's Club Federation, established just one year after Durango itself in 1882, merit mention. The ladies of the Boulevard figured heavily in providing the tours for the outsiders who came in to lobby for its preservation as well as other avenues of participation."

Tourists at Mesa Verde National Park. Farm Security Administration, Office of War Information, Lee Russell, photographer. August, 1939.

Rich road snakes up the valley by the river

“Some beautiful paths can't be discovered without getting lost.”― Erol Ozan

Golden Spike ceremony on Rio Grande Southern near Rico.

By Rob Carrigan, robcarrigan1@gmail.com

First described as forty miles above Big Bend by wagon road, Rico was a destination in the early Silver San Juans boom. 

Rico, of course, means "rich." In 1879, when Col. J.C. Haggerty discovered extremely rich silver ore there, they called the place Carbon City, Carbonville, Lead City, Dolores City and a few other cuss words. A meeting called to settle the issue resulted in William Weston's suggestion of the Spanish word for rich and the name stuck.

"It is 90 miles from Animas City or Durango by Big Bend, the only practical wagon road whereby Rico can be reached. There is a cut off via Bear Creek hill which may be traveled late in the spring, and thus some 20 miles of distance saved. There is a charted toll road from the Animas River to the Rio Dolores, known as Pinkerton or Scotch Creek trail, which when completed, will shorten the distance for wagons," said the Denver Tribune on February 15, 1881.

Rico had been incorporated in 1879 and was a thriving mining town until the Silver Crash in 1893. After the Crash, much of the population moved on — though some mining continued. The Rio Grand Southern railroad was a part of Rico's history from its arrival in 1891 until it was discontinued in 1954.

Friday, November 30, 1951:

In a dispatch from Hart Lee to Dolores Star (best of Hart's Stuff from Rico, 1968)

"Monday morning we went down to the depot to see the last train pull out for Ridgway. Old 461 hooked to the drag flanger and a couple of cabooses made up the train. The crew was J.C. Phillips, H. Walford, Jimmie Cooper and Alvin Talbert. The last train south will be sometime this week to pick up what empties that are in the yard, then after that — well the old girl died a natural death, so far as we know. The first transportation we had back 1869 was foot and horseback, then the bull teams and stage coaches. Then in 1881 we had old Puffen Jennie, not it's cars and trucks. Be a heck of a note if we finally get back to bull teams again, but it could happen."

Friday, December 7, 1951:

In another dispatch from Hart Lee to Dolores Star (best of Hart's Stuff from Rico, 1968).
"We've been talking about the last train going to leave the old burg for the last three weeks, well it happened last Thursday when old No. 20, coupled to thirty-three empties pulled out of the the yards at 12:10 p.m. for Dolores. The crew was Geo. McLean, Lee Lynton, Mike Smith, and Go. Thomas."
Despite difficult terrain, extreme weather conditions, and a trainload of financial difficulties, the Rio Grande Southern (RGS) Railroad operated 162 miles of track between Ridgway and Durango from legendary Otto Mear’s construction efforts, beginning in 1890, until they went into receivership again and started pulling up track in 1953.

The Railroad's headquarters and where the main facilities were in Ridgway, the Railroad traversed Northwest to Dallas Divide, on to the southwest heading down to Placerville. It turned south toward Telluride following the San Miguel River, to what was called Vance Junction (west of Telluride), where one of two coal topples were located. Then continued southeast, curving around up the side of Yellow Mountain to Ophir with the help of numerous, large trestle bridges then looped around to the southwest and continued up the side of Yellow Mountain to Trout lake, curving around it to the Summit of Lizard Head Pass. Then to the southeast, meeting the Dolores River and looping around into the town of Rico.

Rico was considered the center of the Railroad and had some notable engine facilities. From Rico, it followed the Dolores River west into the town of Dolores, where it then curved southeast into Lost Canyon. It followed Lost Creek, and eventually exited the canyon to make its way directly south into Mancos, it traversed east following the East Mancos Creek up Mancos Hill, and then down Cima Hill to Hesperus. Then it curved south, passing by Ute Junction, the second coal topple on the line. It then looped back around the east, near what was then Fort Lewis campus, after which it headed northeast into Wild Cat Canyon. In the canyon, it passed by the townsite of Porter and the site of the Porter Coal mine, making its way north to Franklin Junction. It then curved east and finally ended close to the San Juan Smelter in Durango, where it met up with the D&RGW's San Juan Extension.

The RGS finally threw in the towel and filed with the Interstate Commerce Comission for abandonment on April 24th, 1952, after 60 years of operation. The RGS had lost the contract to ship US mail after failing to clear snow to deliver during the winter of 1951-2. This contract was the very last profitable aspect of the RGS hence why it was the final straw after the railroad's history of financial trouble.

 

Rio Grande Southern Railroad yard at Rico (Colo.): looking south. Date/circa: 1952-05, Photographer: Chione, Alfred G. (Morton, Ill.) Notes: Mile Post 066.24. A closer view than photoprint P026119 looking down the rails toward the water tank and (on the right) the engine house

Rio Grande Southern Railroad depot and tank at Rico (Colo.): looking north, Date/circa: 1952-05

Photographer: Chione, Alfred G. (Morton, Ill.), Notes:Mile Post 066.24.

Rio Grande Southern Railroad buildings and structures at Rico (Colo.), Date/circa: 1950/1965
Photographer: Chione, Alfred G. (Morton, Ill.), Notes: Mile Post 066.24. A slightly more distant view than 

Rio Grande Southern Railroad tank and depot at Rico (Colo.): front and south 3/4, Date/circa: 1952-05
Photographer: Chione, Alfred G. (Morton, Ill.), Notes: Mile Post 066.24.

Rio Grande Southern Railroad Collection, Center for Southwest Studies, Fort Lewis College