Goose making a stop at Vance Junction. Rotary #2 and the coal chutes are in the background. Vance Juction coal pockets last of its kind
By Rob Carrigan, robcarrigan1@gmail.com
One very real benefits from working for Merton Taylor at Taylor Hardware in Dolores as kid, was the chance to hear the hope and joy in his voice when he talked about once-promising locations on Rio Grande Southern Railroad upriver from town. No one else that I ever ran into, had the same optimism and understanding for the long-gone sidetracks, spurs and loops with mostly-forgotten names like Horse Gulch and Rice Spur. One such place, with substantial hope and joy to tone of his stories, was called Vance Junction and is famous even to this day for its coal chutes or 'pockets' as it was known on the road at the time.
2002 photo of the Vance Junction "pocket," History Colorado.
"The
circa 1890 chute is associated with the Rio Grande Southern Railway’s
narrow-gauge line that operated through the mountainous regions of
southwestern Colorado. Once common along coal burning railroads, it is Colorado’s only remaining coaling chute on a narrow-gauge line," says History Colorado.
The two-story section house (section crew stayed in the bottom level and depot manager lived above) at Vance Junction, and several train car out buildings used for storage and ticketing."At
the start of the 1900s, Ilium Valley was in full swing: Rio Grande
Southern trains making the climb towards Ophir and up the railroad’s
Keystone Hill to Telluride, coal for their engines clattering out of the
chutes at Vance Junction. The Ilium hydroelectric power plant, the old
church camp as we know it now, was humming, powered by water flowing
through a six-mile wooden flume from Ames. In Keystone Placer Mine, the
roar of water cannons as they blasted away Keystone Gorge, day and
night, washing away the earth to flush out gold. Ilium was once a busy
place," writesTed Wilson,
of Telluride History Club, and
The View, in an Apr. 18, 2024, article.
Inside of power plant about 1900. "It’s quieter these days. Nature is
reclaiming most of the mining industry endeavors. Their places of work
are now our places of recreation. And Ilium was never highly populated,
even at its peak: Telluride Power Company employees lived at the Ilium
plant, placer miners lived in a boarding house in the gorge, a handful
of Rio Grande Southern employees at Vance Junction, and only a small
scattering of ranching cabins. Much of the land along the San Miguel
River was claimed for placer mining but beyond the placers in Keystone
Gorge, most don’t appear to have been mined extensively. It was rare to
see a profit, the effort typically too expensive for the gold retrieved.
That might have kept the population down, all those existing claims on
the land. Case in point, USFS’s Mary E Campground down here was
previously a placer claim named Mary E. "
Wilson says, "It’s
most likely that Ilium’s first full-time, year-round resident was
Colonel James (Jim) Vance. Vance was in Ilium as early as 1880, soon
after San Miguel’s first prospectors, working his own placer claims,
though only half-heartedly as his small ranch here occupied most of his
time."
A Civil War vet, Vance and his ranch
were enough of a fixture in Ilium that the Rio Grande Southern named
their Vance Junction after him, where the restored coal chutes still
stand. Vance Creek, which crosses the Galloping Goose Trail as you begin
the climb out of Ilium towards Telluride, carries his name as well.
"Active
in his political party, Vance was well-known and respected in
Telluride, the newspaper always mentioned his visits to town. But this
was a time when you were washing your dirty laundry out in the open and
those same newspapers would happily hang it up for everyone to see.
Vance appeared to suffer from alcohol abuse and even his visit to the
Keeley Institute, famous for curing alcoholism with snake oil, was made
public. Some years later, a grisly front-page headline told of Vance’s
attempt to take his own life at his little Ilium ranch. But the modern
world that had sprung up around Jim was there to save his life, friends
at the Ilium power plant coming to his rescue, and the Rio Grande
Southern train transporting him to the Telluride hospital, where he
survived," Wilson writes.
"Jim Vance lived out his last
years in a veterans’ home in Monte Vista, Colorado, passing away in
1914. The old soldier of the 16th Regiment, Illinois Infantry is buried
in that home’s cemetery, his grave marked with a simple Civil War vet
headstone, with no mention of Vance being a pioneer of Ilium Valley.
Only his last name remains here today, on a small stream and an
abandoned railroad junction," he says.
"And what of
real ghosts? If there is a haunted place in Ilium, it’s Keystone Gorge.
Men were killed there in the placer mine. Maybe don’t venture down there
after dark… "
Wilson notes that some Ilium stories are returning to their places of
origin: the county’s historical commission and staff worked with the
Telluride museum on interpretive panels that share the history of the
destructive Keystone Placer Mine and L.L. Nunn’s revolutionary Telluride
Power Company, along with more on the Rio Grande Southern’s activities
in Ilium. These panels will be installed this spring near the picnic
tables on the lower Keystone Gorge Loop Trail and on the county-built
deck on the Coal Chutes Loop Trail.
"Given
our wealth of public lands, we have that unique opportunity to step out
the front door and right into these historic sites. That’s a gift for
history lovers, that slow walk through the ruins, searching for
history’s ghosts. And if you get hooked, and your eyes can’t stop
roaming the hillsides as you look for more, welcome to the club," Wilson writes.
"In the Illium Valley, just over Lizard Head Pass, visitors can hike a segment of the restored Vance Junction
coal chute is the only remaining coal storage facility along the
historic Rio Grande Southern Railroad," says Jim Mimiaga Cortez Journal staff writer.
"Drive Colorado Highway 145 over Lizard Head Pass. At the Ophir
intersection, turn left onto the gravel road (Road 63L) and drop into
Illium Valley. Follow the easy dirt road north for 6 miles to the
trailhead. From there, it is a 1-mile hike to the Vance Junction coal
chute,"writes Mimiaga.
"Built in 1890, the row of eight pocket chutes was designed to dump premeasured amounts of coal quickly into waiting coal cars. Loading the chutes with coal
was very labor intensive. Railcars carrying 10-25 tons of coal would be
moved behind the chute structure," he says.
"Workers called “coal heavers”
loaded the coal into the chutes manually and were paid just 15 cents per
ton, according to an information panel. A stairway leads to the back of the structure, where there is still coal on the ground, and visitors can peer into the chutes."
In 1891, toll road builder Otto
Mears launched the Rio Grand Southern Railroad, which operated between
Ridgway, Placerville, Telluride, Rico, Dolores and Durango until 1951.
The Vance Junction coal chute was part of the Illium Loop section of the
RGS line.
Today, the old railroad bed continues as the Galloping Goose Trail system used by cyclists, hikers, equestrians and anglers.
The Galloping Goose was a type
of rail bus that carried passengers and mail along the Rio Grand
Southern line after it became too expensive to run freight trains.
Galloping Goose No. 5 is on display in downtown Dolores.
Beyond the Vance Junction coal
chutes, the trail continues along the South Fork San Miguel River, then
along the main stem of the San Miguel River.
Generator and two power plant employees.